These past few weeks have been worrisome, stressful and sometimes anger-provoking with the news coming from Israel and Gaza. The news, which changes by the minute with each report, and interpreter of it, in combination with those who post their own, often unsubstantiated opinions on social media –which itself can lead to dangerous misrepresentation and deep concern.
When I’m worried – and even when I’m not worried – I turn to food as succor. To partially relieve my anxieties (and no small amount of paranoia) I looked through my collection of cookbooks and found three timely-subject books which point the reader, and maker of recipes to a place of peace – the kitchen. Each book will give you an insight into the wonderful food that easily translates from Arabic to Hebrew and around again.
The Gaza Kitchen- A Palestinian Culinary Journey
Laila El-Haddad & Maggie Schmitt (justworldbooks.com, 2012) – My late sister, Laura, ordered this book to give to me as a birthday present the year it was published. “You should have this book in your collection” she said. From the opening page, “The Gaza Pantry”, through various chapters including “Pulses and Grains; and “Desserts, Conserves, Beverages”, the book takes you on a journey through Gaza, its history, explanations of local ingredients, and traditional celebrations. One of my favorite recipes is Shorabit Frikah – Green Wheat Soup. When I was gifted with a jar of freekeh (another spelling) I turned to this recipe made with the highly nutritious green wheat. The late Anthony Bourdain wrote about the book, “An important book on an egregiously underappreciated, under- reported area of gastronomy…”.
Hummus – On The Hummus Route A Journey Between Cities, People, and Dreams
Ariel Rosenthal, Orly Peli-Bronshtein, Dan Alexander ( Magica, 2019 {printed in the Middle East}) This gorgeous volume, filled with double-paged photographs of places and food, enchanting stories, and recipes, is dedicated to the world’s oldest legume, the chickpea. Its chapters are divided by cities from Cairo to Gaza to Tel Aviv to Nazareth to Beirut and others in between with recipes that focus on each place’s unique approach to hummus – which is not just a spread for dipping, and schmearing on pita. In Gaza that dish is called Hummus bi Tahine. I’m particularly fond of a dish called Burghol bi Dfine, a Chickpea, Bulgur and Carrot Stew from Damascus.
Jerusalem – A Cookbook
Yotam Ottolenghi, Sami Tamimi ( Ten Speed Press, 2012) – The authors were born in the same year in Jerusalem. Ottolenghi on the Jewish westside, Tamimi on the Arab eastside. Together they created an empire that includes delis, restaurants, products, and cookbooks. Their example of two people who come from diverse religious backgrounds but share the same land, and often similar food traditions is an example to us all. If we all can meet at the table then why not everywhere else? I’ve loved cooking from, and being inspired by the recipes and notes in this book. The herb-filled Cod Cakes in sweet and spicy Tomato Sauce are a favorite. The Semolina, Coconut & Marmalade Cake, a cake found all over the Middle East, is drenched in orange blossom water syrup and gets better the longer it sits around – if you can resist the temptation to consume it all at once.
I’m aware that right now thousands and thousands of people in both Gaza and Israel are without kitchens and the possibility to make their cherished food. It is my fervent wish that the border conflict does not escalate, and an equitable peace agreement can be reached.
Look for these books – order them. In Hudson, www.thespottydog.com
Susan Simon James Beard award-winning author, illustrator. Her latest book is The Cook and The Rabbi recipes and stories to celebrate Jewish Holidays. She lives in Hudson, NY.